For Sale: $3,000

1993 BMW K1100LT - 74,xxx miles

Restored and upgraded


I purchased this K1100LT a little while ago after it had been sitting in someone's garage for a while. I've gone over it completely to rejuvenate it and upgrade many parts on it so it's a great bike for riding in general as well as reliable long distance touring. Since I've restored it I've ridden it down the coast to San Francisco and back a couple of times, taken it to Yellowstone, did a 4,600 mile tour of the western states on it last August and have ridden it some locally as well.

(All of the restoration and upgrades were done by me. I've been playing with old K bikes for two decades now and have owned more than twenty of them so I do know what I'm doing. Not one of them has ever broken down on me.)

The reason I'm selling it is that I own eleven BMW K bikes and have decided to trim the herd to a more reasonable number so that I can spend more time riding and less time wrenching.  I also recently purchased a K1600GT so that is now my long distance touring bike.

Condition - Yes, it's a 26 year old bike with 74K on it but I've done a lot of work on this bike to renovate/upgrade it so that it's a reliable comfortable bike and I would hop on it and ride it to Key West, Florida today without any qualms. It was BMW's premier touring bike back in the early 90s and rides just as well now as it did back then. (Better actually with the mods I've done to it.) Compared to current BMWs it's much more affordable to own and you can do all of the maintenance yourself if you have a modicum of wrenching skill. If properly maintained these bikes can easily go 200,000 miles or more.

Title - It has a clear Washington State title in my name.

Here's what's been done to it:

 Drive Train, Wheels, Suspension

Clutch & Drive Shaft Spine Lube - The clutch and drive shaft splines are lubed and the next spline lube is not due for another 22,000 miles.

Transmission and Final Drive Gear Oil - The transmission and final drive both have Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in them. They also have moly additive in them and on a K1100 the moly makes the transmission shift noticeably smoother. Due to be changed in about 2,000 miles.

Wheels - I swapped in a set of black powder coated wheels from a K1100RS. They are wider than the stock K1100LT wheels and with the tires ride slightly lower than a stock K1100LT.

Tires - The Pirelli Angel GT radial tires on it were installed last summer about 6,000 miles ago and have several thousand miles left on them. (K1100LTs came from the factory with bias ply tires but these bikes ride much better with radial tires like these Pirellis.) The original rubber valve stems have also been replaced with new metal valve stems.

Shock - The shock is an Ohlins shock that I had rebuilt by Ohlins at the beginning of last summer. (The factory shocks on these bikes weren't that great and only lasted thirty to forty thousand miles.)

Fork Boots - I added fork boots to keep bugs and gravel or whatnot from damaging the forks or fork seals.

 Staintune Exhaust

Exhaust - The headers and exhaust are aftermarket from Staintune. The exhaust can has been ceramic coated in matte black. Despite being an aftermarket exhaust the Staintune exhaust is about as loud as the factory exhaust so if you're looking for a bike to scare your neighbor's kids with then this isn't it. There are three advantages of the Staintune exhaust over the factory exhaust:

1 - It weighs less.  The K1100LT was the first production motorcycle in the US to have a catalytic converter.  The Staintune exhaust does not have a catalytic converter and accordingly weighs a fair amount less.

2 - Ease of maintenance. The factory exhaust on K1100s had the headers and exhaust can welded together in one piece so that in order to remove the exhaust (like to take the wheel off to replace the tire) you would need to undo a couple of mounting points at the rear and also undo the eight header flange bolts where the headers attach to the bottom of the cylinder head. That's a fair amount of work and the exhaust is heavy and cumbersome.  With the Staintune exhaust all you need to do is remove one mounting bolt and the hose clamp where the exhaust can meets the collector.  Much simpler and easier.

3 - Reliability. A common issue with K1100s is that the welds where the headers meet the collector will crack.  Even if you get it rewelded it usually doesn't last too long. This can't happen with a Staintune exhaust.


New Brake Pads - Last summer before my 4,600 mile ride I installed new brake pads. (And of course bled the brakes.)

New Rotor "Bobbins" - The front brakes have floating brake rotors. The rotor on each side is connected to its carrier by "bobbins." The factory bobbins are made of aluminum and wear out every 30-40,000 miles and then the brakes rattle annoyingly until the bobbins are replaced. When I redid the brakes last summer I replaced those with some stronger, longer lasting stainless steel aftermarket bobbins.

ABS - The ABS on this bike is fully functional.

 Fuel System

New Fuel Lines - All of the fuel lines both inside and outside of the fuel tank have been replaced with new fuel lines.

Reconditioned Fuel Injectors - The fuel injectors have been professionally reconditioned by a shop that specializes in this and have new O-rings and pintel caps.

New Fuel Filter - I installed a brand new fuel filter just the other day.

Fresh Throttle Body Synch - One of the keys to keeping these bikes running smoothly is to synch the throttle bodies so I did that the other day as well.

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - It has NGK iridium spark plugs which are better and longer lasting then regular spark plugs.

Note: With the rejuvenation of the fuel system and reconditioned fuel injectors this bike runs extremely well for a K1100. Even after sitting for several months it will start right up in a second or two and runs very smoothly.


Engine Oil - I just did an oil/filter change with Mobil 1 synthetic so it has fresh oil in it.

Coolant - I also just changed the coolant with fresh Prestone and distilled water so that's good for the next several years. (Prestone claims their coolant is good for five years or 150,000 miles.)


Battery - The battery is a Westco sealed AGM 12V/30AH.

Alternator Upgrade - Prior to 1994 K1100LTs came from the factory with a 33 Amp (400 Watts) alternator which is more than adequate for a stock bike but when you start adding things to the electrical system like aux lights and running heated gear it can get overtaxed. I upgraded the alternator to a later 50 Amp (600 Watts) alternator which has more "extra" electrical power than you'll ever need.

Aux Fuse Block - I added several electrical mods to this bike and since I'm not a fan of having in-line fuses everywhere I consolidated the add-on circuits into an aux fuse block that sits right next to the factory fuse block under the left side cover. I also added a label in English to the factory fuse block because I don't know German.

New Fan - Since the fan rarely kicks in on these bikes except on really hot days when idling the factory fans often get corroded internally and die from lack of use. I replaced the fan on a this bike with a new, more reliable and quieter SPAL brand fan.

Side Stand Warning LED - From the factory K1100s came with a side stand cutoff switch so that the bike will not run when the side stand is deployed.  I find this annoying so I disabled that and wired the side stand switch up to a very bright red flashing warning LED at eye level to let the rider know when the side stand is down so you don't ride off with it down.


Headlight Upgrades - The stock headlight and headlight wiring on these bikes from the factory is OK but really not that great. In order to make the headlight much better I added headlight relays with beefed up wiring and a ceramic bulb socket in order to run a better, higher powered H4 headlight bulb. I can now ride at night at 80 MPH+ (in Montana where the speed limit is 80 on I-90) and see far enough ahead with the high beam on to do so comfortably.

"Euro" Headlight Switch - US K1100s came from the factory with an "always on" headlight like many US bikes.  I swapped in a European style right combination switch with an additional switch that lets you control the parking lights and headlight.

LED Fork Lights - In order to make the bike more conspicuous from the front on the road I added some Cree LED fork lights. (Not only does this make the bike more visible but the triangle formed by the headlight and LED flood lights makes it easier for other road users to judge your distance and speed.)

Bright Red LED Tail and Brake Lights - The stock tail and brake lights on the old K bikes aren't that great.  I added LED tail and brake lights that are bright enough to be noticeable even in bright sunlight.  The LED brake lights flash several times when either brake is applied and then go solid until the brake is released. You can worry less about being rear-ended at a stop light and the flashing red brake LEDs are also good for waking up tailgaters behind you.

LED Turn Signals - I modified the factory flasher relay so the bike now has Cree LED turn signal bulbs which are brighter and last longer than the original factory filament bulbs.

Side LED Running Lights - I added front and rear side marker LEDs to make the bike more visible from the side at night. These side LEDs also flash with the turn signals.

 Instruments and Controls

Real Cruise Control - One of the best mods to this bike is the real cruise control where you can set and adjust the speed just like in your car. It's controlled by a BMW switch built into the left combination switch which is easily accessible with your thumb without having to take your hand off of the handlebar.  It's a BMW switch made for motorcycle use so the switch is 100% waterproof and there's no dorky looking aftermarket cruise control add-on switch on the handlebars.

Stiffened Handlebars - From the factory K1100s came with rubber mounted handlebars that are a bit "mushy" and not particularly conducive to precise riding. I've considerably stiffened up the mounting of the handlebars on this bike to mitigate this issue.

Bob's "Wrist Rest" Bar Ends - These stainless steel bar ends with a built-in throttle lock were once sold by Bob's BMW. Since the bike has real cruise control a throttle lock isn't particularly useful but they are stainless steel and look much better than the chunks of pig iron with plastic caps that were the bar ends that came from the factory.



Pro-Grip Gel Grips - The factory grips were hard rubber and not all that comfortable over long distances.  These new gel grips I installed are much better.

Heated Grips - The bike also has heated grips with a High-Low-Off switch in the handlebar cover.

GPS - There's a five inch TomTom GPS installed on the upper left inside of the fairing.  This is actually a car GPS but I took it apart and waterproofed for use on a motorcycle. (I've ridden this bike trough some very nasty rain and my waterproofing holds up well.)  Not only does it provide regular TomTom features but I've also loaded it with some software that runs in parallel with the TomTom software to provide, among other things, a digital speedometer, altitude and endless GPX track logging so you can upload your track to Google Earth when you get home and have a nice map of your travels. And it's easy to toggle back and forth between that software on the native TomTom software while riding.

Calibrated Speedometer - From the factory the speedometer on these bikes usually runs about 10% high.  It's annoying so I calibrated the speedometer to be more accurate.

Instrument Cluster LEDs - All of the original filament bulbs in the instrument cluster have been replaced with LEDs. Aside from lasting longer than filament bulbs, the LEDs provide better, crisper lighting without being too bright. The fuel and temperature gauges in the knee panels now have LED backlighting that matches the cluster LED backlighting.

Digital Voltmeter - I added a digital LED voltmeter to the bottom of the instrument cluster.  So as not to be distracting, it only goes on when the turn signal cancel button is pressed so you can check the voltage easily while riding or if the bike is parked without the keys in it.

LED Backlit Switches - I added LED backlighting to the handlebar switches to make them easier to find and use at night. While I had them apart I also cleaned, lubricated and checked the solder connections on the switches to make them well working and trouble-free.

Electric Windscreen - The electronically adjustable windscreen works just as it should and I've recently cleaned and lubricated the rods it travels on to keep it that way.

Radio - It also still has the original working AM/FM/Cassette radio in the left side fairing storage compartment.  (With security code.) Like most people I usually leave this off of the bike since it's only got 3.5" speakers that are pretty worthless and having the storage available there makes more sense.


The seat on this bike is a BMW "Comfort" Seat in very good condition. It's not the world's greatest seat but much better than the factory "square" seat that many of the old K bikes came with.


The bike has 74,xxx miles on it so there are some very minor paint nicks here and there but on the whole it's a very presentable bike.  The BMW roundels on the tank were showing their age so I carefully removed them without harming the paint. These are easy to replace and available from BMW for $20 each but  I haven't bothered yet since they aren't very visible due to the fairing.

There are no rust spots on the frame and the paint on the forks shows no fading so you can tell this bike has spent its whole life in a garage.

The knee pads are in good shape as well.

I've replaced a lot of the visible hardware on the bike with stainless steel fasteners.


The color matched paint on the side cases has some typical paint blems from use but is overall in good condition. The factory elastic straps are pretty lame so I've replaced that with 3/16" bungee cord which is stronger and much longer lasting.

From the factory the side cases have plastic hinges at the bottom that wear out and break every 20,000 miles or so. (Usually when you're 1,000+ miles from home.) I've replaced the hinges with aluminum piano hinges that won't break and are much more reliable.

The "X" of elastic doesn't do a great job of holding the contents in when you open the cases on the bike so I made some custom HDPE panels to hold the contents in when touring.

There's also an expandable nearly new FirstGear tail bag in excellent condition.


 Also Included

Factory Toolkit - This tool kit contains a wide variety of quality tools and allows you to do just about everything to this bike without the need for any additional tools.

Oil Filter Wrench - The correct sized cup style oil filter wrench required for oil filter changes.

K1100 Rider Manual - Hardcopy owner's manual that came with the bike.

Clymer Manual - Hardcopy of the Clymer workshop manual for K bikes including the K1100.

K1100 Manual & Maintenance CD - This CD includes the following items in PDF format:

  K1100 Rider Manual - BMW Rider(Owners) Manual

  K1100 Operating Tips - This is an eight page PDF which will save you the trouble of digging through the owners manual to know the essentials for operating a K1100.

  BMW ABS Supplemental Manual - This is a supplemental BMW manual to the rider manual for the ABS system.

  BMW Radio Manual - This is the owners manual for the AM/FM/Cassette radio used in K1100LTs.

  K1100 General Maintenance Tips & Tricks - This provides concise descriptions and tips to simplify K1100 maintenance.

  BMW K1100 Shop Manual - Official BMW repair manual for K1100s.

  BMW K1100 Maintenance Schedule/Checklist

  Clymer Workshop Manual - Clymer DIY workshop manual that covers K1100s. It is a scanned copy that has been indexed so that it is text searchable. Instead of getting the hardcopy manual all covered in greasy fingerprints you can just print the pages you need and take those out to the garage.

  TomTom XXL Manual - For the GPS.

 Test Rides

Test rides for prospective buyers are available under the following conditions:

  Your license has a current valid motorcycle endorsement.

  "You crash it, you buy it." You bring the asking price in cash. I hold that while you test ride. If you crash it while test riding it then you just bought it. If you don't crash it on the test ride and decide not to buy it then I return your cash to you.

 Terms of Sale

  Cash only.

  As this is a used vehicle it is being sold on an as-is basis with no expressed or implied warranties.